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Rigging an anchor

When it comes to the anchor itself, I use a 1.5kg folding model, some use 0.75kg models, but I’ve seen these drag so prefer a little more weight. I always use at least 1m of chain, this helps immensely when it comes to making sure the anchor holds. I attach my anchors using the weak link system, whereby the chain is actually shackled to the wrong end of the anchor, and run up the shank and secured using a cable tie. If you experiment with different cable ties you’ll find one that snaps with the right amount of pressure, allowing you to reverse your anchor out of most snags. You can also just notch the cable tie with a pair of pliers. Top tip is to ensure you put a few spare cable ties into your tackle box so that if you do have to trip an anchor then you can reset it there and then and carry on fishing. There’s also a method called a bridal, where a loop of line or wire is run from one end of the anchor to the other, this looks good in theory, but in practice can be very hard to trip in strong currents, and for that reason I’ve stopped using this method and don’t recommend it.

 I use 2mm anchor warp, which has a breaking strain of around 85kg, more than enough for a kayak, and like fishing line, the thinner diameter you can use the less drag and the less there is to store. The line is stored on an old divers reel, which is perfect for the job.

Recommended book


Discover Kayak Fishing
by Andy Benham

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