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Anchor Trolley for Prowler Ultra 4.3

 

The Ultra 4.3 comes with around 180 moulded in inserts, so it should be possible to do most of the fitting out without having to drill any holes. I managed to source a fitting that bridged the two inserts on the bow, its came from the Select Designs range that is available at most good kayak retailers.
However, despite finding the necessary fitting I decided to go for my tried and tested method and fitted a Harken cheek block as near to the bow as I could reach. It was secured with M4 nuts and bolts, and I added a pair of penny washers inside the boat to spread the load, the nuts were tightened via the front hatch, and the threads of the nuts dipped in Sikalfex 291 prior to insertion to ensure a water tight seal.
At the stern I used a very  short length of bungee cord to attach the Harken block to the tailor made anchor bracket, which in turn was attached to the inserts normally used to mount a rudder, this uses M5 bolts. The bungee is only really there to keep tension in the trolley, I don't find that I need any shock absorber effect in the trolley itself, as this is usually provided by the length of anchor rope in the water.
To join the two ends of the anchor trolley rope I used a stainless steel ring and a carabineer. I put a short length of shrink tube onto the rope before I tied it on, and then used a heat gun to shrink the tub down, giving a very tidy knot, with no ends showing, and also to seal the knot and prevent it moving
One of the problems with this type of trolley is that the rope can come up over the cockpit area. To prevent this, the side of the loop without the carabineer is threaded through the existing deck fitting, using the space usually used for the running line, which I removed. I also reverse out some of the fitting, and then refit them, using a hook fitted on top of the fitting to catch the side of the loop with the carabineer and prevent it coming over the cockpit.
I tend to use a quick release when I'm anchoring, and therefore had to fit a cleat to hold the end of the rope. To get access I reversed out the screws around a rear flush mount and marked and drilled the holes for the cleat. To secure the cleat I first fitted penny washers to the bolts, having put a little Sikaflex on the side of the washer closest to the hull, this not only helps the seal but also stops the washer falling in to the hull before you fit the nut.

 

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